Bangkok, A City On The Edge Of Ruin

 

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Is Bangkok going to be the first white elephant of ASEAN? The pointless, useless, unwanted capital of a newly formed group. 

In one word I would describe Bangkok as “Meh”. 

The good news is Bangkok can save itself but it has to act now and it has to act divisively.

Bangkok Isn't Really Anything

What is Bangkok? It isn’t a historic city full of cultural sites. It isn’t a place where world class facilities line the streets. It isn’t even the food capital of ASEAN anymore. Hell, even the nightlife isn’t as raucous or naughty as before. 

Bangkok has changed and not for the better. 

Nowadays Bangkok is the city people fly into and spend a night or two before heading to more interesting places in ASEAN. Actually, maybe that’s my point, Bangkok is a great hub and that’s about it. 

Shopping, Food, Nightlife

People argue about the recent invasion of shopping malls in Bangkok. Some argue this gentrification of Bangkok is a slight at the average Thai person. Others say that Bangkok is a city which needs more malls. Either way the authorities argue Bangkok is a place to come shop but in reality Bangkok is a damp squib when it comes to shopping. The current malls are bang average and don’t offer an improvement on anything found in other major cities including Singapore. Designer goods cost a fortune and the markets aren’t really worth visiting. 

Thai food is cracking. I would eat Thai food over any other ASEAN cuisine. The problem is Bangkok is kicking street food off the streets. At this rate food carts will be gone and we’ll be left with Japanese Sushi buffets and KFC. I hate street food but I do see the value and cultural relevance it brings to Bangkok. In Bangkok you have to head to the outskirts to find good restaurants serving great Thai food. My local area of Bearing has more steak, pizza and sushi joints than Thai food. 

I used to work in the travel industry and guys would ask me to fake their itineraries to show they weren’t going to Bangkok to fool their partners but nowadays it’s hardly a sin city. I went to Soi Cowboy the other week and it was tame. I only actually saw nipples in one bar. OMG. I’m not a red-light district expert but I’m guessing in other ASEAN cities there’s much more flesh on show. In short Bangkok is more craft beer and roof top bar paradise than girly bar zone these days. Hell even Khao San Road is a bit posh these days, the beers there cost more than my local in Sukhumvit 105. 

The ASEAN Alternatives

15 or 20 years ago Thailand was exotic, these days it isn’t. Cambodia, Laos and Myanmar are bigger draws for those looking for an adventure. Singapore is a bigger draw for Western standard quality hotels, malls and restaurants. Bangkok is in the middle and that is what is making it a bit boring right now. 

Sure other areas of Thailand are more exciting for tourists and expats than Bangkok but the capital should put up more of a fight. 

Bangkok is a decent place to live as you can find what you want without difficulty but there are still annoyances. Friends who have lived in Vietnam talk of benefits there. Expats in the Philippines mention the lack of language barriers. Those who have gone to Cambodia are quick to mention the cheaper cost of living. In short Bangkok has lost it’s identity. It’s becoming the upper middle class location of ASEAN, perfectly good but neither overly exciting nor the best place to live. In short it needs to make a decision quickly. 

The Future

Bangkok needs to decide if it wants to compete with Singapore to be the best city in ASEAN or if it wants to revert to it’s original style and be the most interesting city in ASEAN. 

Right now Bangkok is somewhere in the middle and is suffering for it. 

Whoever comes into power next year will decide if Bangkok will keep going in it’s pursuit to be a truly world-class city or to revert to it’s Thai-style roots. Whichever it chooses it must go for it, the current middle ground isn’t doing anything for the people living or visiting here. 

About Richard 176 Articles
British guy living and working in Bangkok, Thailand since 2013. Running LifeInANewCountry.com teaching and writer of Settling in Thailand expat book.